Trailer Tire Information
|
PART
NUMBER
|
SIZE
|
LOAD
|
O.D.
|
WIDTH
|
FITS
RIM
|
MAX.
LOAD
|
LUG
PATTERN
|
|
Sizes and dimensions are in
inches unless specified otherwise.
|
|
TS63A
|
4.80-8
|
"A"
/ 2 PLY
|
15.5
|
4.8
|
8
X 4
|
590
lbs.
|
4 x 4"
|
| |
Fits trailer model nos.
beginning with: 832T, 850T
|
|
TS63B
|
4.80-12
|
"B"
/ 4 PLY
|
20.5
|
4.8
|
12
X 4
|
780
lbs.
|
4 x 4"
|
| |
Fits
trailer models nos. beginning with: 832TA, 850TA |
|
TS63C
|
5.30-12
|
"C"
/ 6 PLY
|
21.8
|
5.4
|
12
X 4
|
1045
lbs.
|
5 x 4.5"
|
| |
Fits
trailer models nos. beginning with: 745TC, 749TC, 861TC |
|
TS63E
|
20.5
X 8-10
|
"C"
/ 6 PLY
|
20.5
|
8
|
10
X 6
|
1105
lbs.
|
5 x 4.5"
|
| |
Fits
trailer models: 746TE, 749TE |
|
A33
|
5.70
X 8
|
"D"
/ 8 PLY
|
18.6
|
4.5
|
8
X 3.75
|
1075
lbs.
|
5 x 4.5"
|
| |
Fits
trailer models beginning with: LTB1LP |

Tire Maintenance
Air Pressure
Your trailer tires support the weight of your trailer and
cargo, right? Well, they don't! It's the air pressure inside them
that actually supports the weight. Maintaining sufficient air pressure
is required if your trailer tires are to provide all of the handling,
traction and durability of which they are capable.
However,
you can't set trailer tire pressure...and then forget about it!
Tire pressure has to be checked periodically to assure that the
influences of time, changes in ambient temperatures or that a small
tread puncture has caused it to change.
The
tire pressure recommended in your owner's manual or on the tire
information placard is the recommended "cold" tire inflation
pressure. This means that it should be checked in the morning before
you drive more than a few miles, or before rising ambient temperatures
or the sun's radiant heat affects it.
Since
air is a gas, it expands when heated and contracts when cooled.
In most parts of North America, this makes fall and early winter
months the most critical times to check inflation pressures...days
are getting shorter...ambient temperatures are getting colder...and
your tires' inflation pressure is going down!
The
rule of thumb is for every 10° Fahrenheit change in air temperature,
your tire's inflation pressure will change by about 1 psi (up with
higher temperatures and down with lower).
In
most parts of North America, the difference between average summer
and winter temperatures is about -50° Fahrenheit which results in
a potential "loss" of about 5 psi as winter's temperatures
set in. And a 5 psi "loss" is enough to sacrifice handling,
traction, and durability!
Additionally,
the difference between cold nighttime temperatures and hot daytime
temperatures in most parts of the country is about 20° Fahrenheit.
This means that after setting tire pressures first thing in the
morning, the trailer's tire pressures will be almost 2 psi higher
when measured in the afternoon (if the vehicle was parked in the
shade). While that is expected, the problem is when you set your
vehicle's tire pressures in the heat of the day, their cold pressures
will probably be 2 psi low the following morning.
And
finally, if the vehicle is parked in the sun, the sun's radiant
heat will artificially and temporarily increase tire pressures.
Add
all of these together, and you can understand why the conditions
in which you set your vehicle's tire pressures are almost as important
as the fact that you do set it.
It's
important to remember that your trailers's recommended tire pressure
is its "cold" tire inflation pressure. It should be checked
in the morning before you drive more than a few miles, or rising
ambient temperatures or sun's radiant heat affects it.
And
by the way, if you live in the North and park in an attached or
heated garage you will "lose" pressure when you leave
its warmth and venture into the real world outside during winter.
Add 1 psi "cold" pressure tire pressure to compensate
for each 10° Fahrenheit temperature difference between the temperature
in the garage and outside.
Repairing
Punctures
One
of the last sights drivers want to see when they are getting ready
to pull their trailer is a flat tire. They realize that in addition
to the immediate inconvenience of having to install their spare
tire, they will have to get the punctured tire repaired.
While
almost any sharp object left on the road can cause a puncture, most
are caused by small nails and screws which keeps them within the
general guidelines which allow the repair of punctures in a tire's
tread area of up to 1/4" in diameter. Repair of larger tread
punctures and of punctures to the tire's shoulder and sidewall areas
are not recommended.
There
are three primary considerations when repairing a punctured tire.
You need to evaluate the damage the object caused as it punctured
the tire, reestablish an airtight seal of the tire's innerliner,
and completely fill the path the object took through the tire.
Any
repair done without removing the tire from the wheel is improper.
Without inspecting the inside of the tire for hidden damage comes
the risk of returning a weakened tire to service. Punctures in the
tread area that looked repairable have revealed upon further investigation
that the object that punctured the tire had been long enough to
cut the tire's sidewall from the inside. Without dismounting the
tire, the hidden damage would have been missed. Simply "plugging"
a tire from the outside without removing the tire from the wheel
is improper. (If a tire is punctured while off-roading far away
from civilization and a spare tire isn't available, a plug may serve
as a temporary low speed solution which must be replaced with a
proper repair as soon as possible upon returning to the road.)
There
are many different rubber compounds used in a tire. The tire's inner
liner uses a special rubber compound that has the ability to better
retain air. Once punctured, the inner liner must be cleaned, buffed,
cemented, patched and coated to assure its ability to retain air
has been restored. Since this can only be done from inside the tire,
it's another reason that a "plug" only repair is improper.
Continuing
to drive on a tire with a "slow" leak may allow moisture
to seep around the object and into the tire. This will reduce the
probability that the tire can be repaired properly because the moisture
will ultimately reach the internal steel and fabric cords used to
reinforce the tire and possibly cause rust and loss of strength.
To assure reestablishing a water tight seal the injury must be "cleaned"
with a specially designed cutting "drill" that removes
rust and sizes the injury properly to accept the rubber "stem"
of the patch. Cemented in place, the stem will vulcanize with the
tire to help prevent moisture from reaching the tire's reinforcing
cords from the outside.
How
do you know which procedures a tire dealer uses? Ask them! But be
aware that if they say that they can repair a tire in 10 minutes
for under $10 dollars without removing it from the wheel, they aren't
following the Rubber Manufacturer's Association procedures. A correctly
done flat repair that follows the multi-step repair procedures will
take approximately 30 minutes and probably cost around $20. Driving
on an improperly repaired tire is dangerous because it can further
damage the tire and/or allow its strength to deteriorate over time.
An improperly repaired tire driven at high speeds may suddenly fail,
causing loss of vehicle control. Additionally, the use of an innertube
as a substitute for a proper repair generates additional heat and
should not be considered.
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